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1923 14k Green Gold Men's Strap Watch
Fri, 01 October 2021 21:08
Model name: Unknown
Type: Strap Watch
Period/date: 1923
Gender: Men's
Case Maker: Unknown Swiss
Case Material: 14k Green Gold
Case Serial: 7979*
Case Style no: N/A
Caliber: 997
Movement Maker: Unknown
Movement Serial: 94508
Bracelet: Leather Strap
Other Information: As far as I can tell from reviewing the caliber 98 thread, we still do not know who manufactured the 98/99/997 movements. This watch has a June of 1926 inscription, but Case helped me pin down a likely date of 1923. Which would also explain why it doesn't appear in the Master Book. It still has its original buckle, marked "Gruen 14k-G B&N Pat. Pending". The case is marked "14C" rather than "14K". I've seen this on other cases, but have yet to identify any rhyme or reason. I would assume it's just nomenclature unique to certain casemakers. I also don't have any leads on who the casemaker might be. Weber cases can usually (but not always) be spotted by their typical X00XXX six-digit numbers. There was another Swiss casemaker working for Gruen with five-digit serial numbers that is also unidentified.
*While at a glance, it looks somewhat like 7379, I'm fairly confident that the second digit is a misstruck 9.
Pictures:
The only known advertisement featuring this model:
This is a 1925 catalog from jeweler S. Kind & Sons of Philadelphia (thanks for Jenneke and Barney for that information). While the catalog references a 15-jewel movement and has a luminous dial, this watch is from the era in which Gruen models were often shown this way, with an illustration of the case style, but then a number of options listed.
And here is a photograph of its original owner, Erret Reed Cooper:
Mr. Cooper was an attorney in LaPorte, Indiana. His great great uncle was none other than James Fennimore Cooper. He was born in 1903, so would have been 23 at the time this watch was given to him. But he didn't receive his Bachelor of Laws degree until 1929. He also held an "honorary degree of Bachelor of Oratory was conferred on him by the British Royal Academy at Christ College, Oxford, England." The article I found doesn't mention when this was received, but maybe a candidate as the occasion for which this watch was gifted.
1920's |
2 comments
Caliber 515SS
Thu, 16 September 2021 14:16
Here’s a later caliber, found in style number 1046 cases (1960s?). The case & movement are made in France. Imagine my surprise to see it stamped for Alpina!
The caliber database |
14 comments
Import Tank
14k green gold; Wed, 08 September 2021 18:01
A new addition today. I'd like to give it a name, but I'm coming up with bupkes. I've checked the Master Book, 1927 Stock Record Book, and the 1920s advertisements thread to no avail.
All I can say is that it runs a cal. 98, has a June 8, 1926, inscription, and a 14k green gold Swiss case with a four-digit serial number of 7979. And the presumably original B&N buckle has no patent date, rather patent pending. It would presumably have been a Strap model, because I don't think the Import designation existed this early. But it might also predate the Strap designation. Tough to say exactly what was going on in the early 1920s (and the inscription gives the latest possible date, but I'm open to the possibility that it was actually made a few years earlier). Here are a couple of pics:
And if you think the case and buckle look like they're tinted blue and purple, they are. All I know is that the previous owner stored his watches in felt-lined leather binders, and all the green watches developed this patina. I'm bummed that it'll probably fade with use, but enjoying the look for now.
I'm not sure anybody's going to find anything on it, but if anybody has a cache of mid-1920s ads that haven't been posted, let me know if you find anything. If nothing turns up, I'll do an entry in the 1920s database. I'd prefer to have an ID first, but not holding my breath on this one.
1920's |
23 comments
Gruen Mystery Dial
1958; Thu, 22 July 2021 00:38
Model name: Unsure
Type: Mystery Dial
Period/date: Unsure// maybe 50's?
Gender: Male
Case Maker:
Case Material:
Case Serial: J63809
Case Style no: 068
Caliber:215R
Movement Maker: Unsure
Movement Serial: Unsure
Bracelet:Unoriginal Spiedel expansion
Other info: Dial is almost like a "pan". Ball hour marker and spoon shaped hand that curves over the ball. The gold plate on top has posts drilled into the crystal. I wasn't expecting such a small movement is a rather big case. Please let me know if any other information is needed. Thank you.
1950's and Up |
10 comments
Vintage Gruen
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