| Re: stainless steel Curvex [message #8207 is a reply to message #6320] |
Mon, 03 July 2017 05:19  |
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JackW
Messages: 1998
Registered: May 2013
Location: Denver
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I finished this watch this weekend.
I took my time on this one... the dial was a major concern to me. I even tracked down a different dial based on some pictures from afire and Cary.
...but it didn't fit.
The spare cal 311, that came with the dial, I though would at least be good for spare parts. It was a good purchase. So, I finally sent the dial to Kirk Rich of California. After much discussion with them, it was decided that the numbers and minute track were original; they were fired-on enamel. What wasn't correct was the subseconds bit, the font for Gruen and the lack of the word "Precision". These were just contact prints. I've seen a few other early-ish 311 Curvex's that did not say "Curvex" on the dial. I can always add it later if needed, likely was over the seconds bit as it was. I'm a bit disappointed in the small section where the minutes track is disconnected from the edge of the seconds track. It is what it is... But after rather exhaustive research on this one, I think that this is what the original dial looked like; or darn close. I did not have "Switzerland" placed at the bottom.
Now that 311 was a PITA to work on. In disassembly of the watch for cleaning, I noted that the hair spring had several kinks and the over-coil was not well aligned. So, having had success with several other watches that needed minor tweeking I went after the hairspring. Holy cats! This is the softest hairspring metal I've encountered. It is even worse that other Gruen hairsprings. Did they change the type of alloys in the Conoruma metal at some point? I've done work on several 405/420 series and other earlier movements such at the cal 485. I ended up mangling this one further... So I turned to the spare I bought. Water damage had impacted the movement, but it was most apparent in the hairspring. It starting disintegration as I was removing it. Cary saved me with another donor 311. Thanks Cary!
I did also get something unexpected in the first donor movement.... an original winding crown. Tt has the dust 'flange' that is seen on lots of Quadrons and tank models. Apparently it came on some early Curvex models too. Is marked with "International Brevet Depose", but no numbers. I believe that dust-proof crown rights was held by Alpina. Unfortuantely, it doesn't fit to the case I have. The winding crown on mine is underfit, its hard to wind the watch fully.
This was one of the three movements to roll off the bench this week.
...and firmly attached to my wrist.
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All I know is based on hard work & writing by others. I can only aspire to augment this body of knowledge. If I am wrong it is because of my own failings. -me
"If I have seen farther it is by standing on the shoulders of giants." - Newton
[Updated on: Mon, 03 July 2017 05:24] Report message to a moderator |
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