Vintage Gruen
The forum for Gruen watch enthusiasts.

Home » The Gruen Model Database » 1920's » Wristlet 103
Wristlet 103 [message #10860] Sat, 07 September 2019 01:14 Go to next message
Ephemerald
Messages: 1039
Registered: October 2018
Location: City of Lake Salt
Gruen Authority
Model name :WR 103
Type :Wristlet
Period/date :
Gender :Ladies

Case Maker :Gruen
Case Material :White GF Ultra Quality
Case Serial :1029210
Case Style no :

Caliber :179
Movement Maker :
Movement Serial:161570

Bracelet :

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=4988&private=0

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=4989&private=0

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=4990&private=0



Matthias

[Updated on: Sat, 07 September 2019 01:25]

Report message to a moderator

Re: Wristlet 103 [message #10861 is a reply to message #10860] Sat, 07 September 2019 02:20 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Gary
Messages: 2108
Registered: May 2013
Location: Left Coast
Gruen Authority
Cheerleader

Nice! Some good reading on the 179 and the relationship with Alpina and Favre.
Re: Wristlet 103 [message #10862 is a reply to message #10860] Sat, 07 September 2019 03:14 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Case is currently offline  Case
Messages: 1178
Registered: May 2019
Location: Cincinnati
Gruen Authority
Wow, a nice example! The engraving details are very crisp!

Here's my shot at dating it with case #s. The case was likely made mid/late 1925 and I believe is actually an unsigned Wadsworth case. Many of the Ultra Quality line, including these and the tanks, remained unsigned long after gf/reinforced cases started being signed, but they follow wads case #s, including the jump to 5mm in late 1925/early 1926. This case was made either just prior to that jump or maybe even concurrent: it appears Gruen built up a large stock of GF Quadrons right at the 5mm jump, occupying much of 5-5.1mm.

I believe the movement may be later, perhaps 1927. Can't tell for sure, but from the font your sn looks like it could be 151k vs 161k. The 179 examples I have for this time indicate mvmt #s 118k @ UQ case # 995k, 129k @ 1028k, 138k @ 5108k, 148k @ 5110k. Mid-1928, 179 was @ 173k.

Looking forward to hearing what others have to say.


My two caveats:
1) I'm wrong many times a day --just ask my wife!
2) Always seeking to learn more
Re: Wristlet 103 [message #10863 is a reply to message #10862] Sat, 07 September 2019 04:13 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ephemerald
Messages: 1039
Registered: October 2018
Location: City of Lake Salt
Gruen Authority
I appreciate you giving it a shot on the date, Dan!
I too thought the same thing on the sn, it being a possible 5 or 6, toss up. But to me it didn't look enough like the other 5, so I went w 6.


& Gary thanks for the link.


Matthias
Re: Wristlet 103 [message #10870 is a reply to message #10863] Sat, 07 September 2019 13:45 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Barney Green
Messages: 1726
Registered: February 2014
Location: Wolfsburg, Germany
Gruen Authority
The 179s have a strange numbering scheme. I own six of them with the following case /serial / maker combinations:

125686 / 996799 / GRUEN ULTRA QUALITY
130365 / 5144168 / Wadsworth 14K GOLD REINFORCED WITH METAL
320132 / 5158901 / Wadsworth 14K GOLD REINFORCED WITH METAL
320317 / 5239682 / Wadsworth 14K GOLD FILLED REINFORCED WITH EXTRA GOLD
320411 / 5278253 / Wadsworth 14K GOLD FILLED REINFORCED WITH EXTRA GOLD
1216071 / 2112798 / GRUEN 14K GOLD FILLED REINFORCED WITH EXTRA GOLD

The first one I dated the case probably too early, but I gave it a 1922 for the case and 1926 for the movement.
Number two and three I gave a 1926 for the case and a 1927 for the movement.
Number four and five got a 1927 all over.
The last one got a 1931 for the case and a 1930 for the movement.

The three 320k movements are very close, but three different watches: Strap 28, Strap 57 and Strap 91. The 30s one is a Strap 176.


Gruen, Gruen, Gruen ist alles was ich habe... Gruen, Gruen, Gruen is all I have...(German folklore song)

[Updated on: Sat, 07 September 2019 13:59]

Report message to a moderator

Re: Wristlet 103 [message #10871 is a reply to message #10870] Sat, 07 September 2019 13:58 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Barney Green
Messages: 1726
Registered: February 2014
Location: Wolfsburg, Germany
Gruen Authority
I checked for my Gruen UQ serials and it looks like they really share serial number base with Wadsworth cases of that time.
With the new check I had to recalibrate my dating algorithm and I am now at 1925 for the 996799 serial number...


Gruen, Gruen, Gruen ist alles was ich habe... Gruen, Gruen, Gruen is all I have...(German folklore song)
Re: Wristlet 103 [message #10873 is a reply to message #10871] Sat, 07 September 2019 17:24 Go to previous messageGo to next message
JackW is currently offline  JackW
Messages: 1870
Registered: May 2013
Location: Denver
Gruen Authority
Head Janitor
Site Admin
I'll chip in my 2ยข then for what it is worth...
/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=4996&private=0
/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=4997&private=0
/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=4995&private=0

There is what I'm presuming to be a maker's mark for this case. I don't know it.

btw... if some one would like this watch, pm me.
  • Attachment: case_back_sm.jpg
    (Size: 245.42KB, Downloaded 533 times)
  • Attachment: dialside.jpg
    (Size: 296.25KB, Downloaded 526 times)
  • Attachment: mvt_sm.jpg
    (Size: 233.64KB, Downloaded 518 times)


All I know is based on hard work & writing by others. I can only aspire to augment this body of knowledge. If I am wrong it is because of my own failings. -me

"If I have seen farther it is by standing on the shoulders of giants." - Newton

[Updated on: Sat, 07 September 2019 17:30]

Report message to a moderator

Re: Wristlet 103 [message #10874 is a reply to message #10873] Sat, 07 September 2019 17:45 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Barney Green
Messages: 1726
Registered: February 2014
Location: Wolfsburg, Germany
Gruen Authority
Now this becomes very interesting! According to the Mikrolisk trade mark website the makers mark is the one of Fritz Moeri from St. Imier in Switzerland. Shall these cases be imports?

Here is the trademark filing:

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=4998&private=0


Gruen, Gruen, Gruen ist alles was ich habe... Gruen, Gruen, Gruen is all I have...(German folklore song)

[Updated on: Sat, 07 September 2019 17:51]

Report message to a moderator

Re: Wristlet 103 [message #10875 is a reply to message #10874] Sat, 07 September 2019 18:14 Go to previous messageGo to next message
JackW is currently offline  JackW
Messages: 1870
Registered: May 2013
Location: Denver
Gruen Authority
Head Janitor
Site Admin
WOW Bernd, that was fast.

edit.... Watch Wiki lists Moeri as part of the Union Horologie.... aka the Guild.


All I know is based on hard work & writing by others. I can only aspire to augment this body of knowledge. If I am wrong it is because of my own failings. -me

"If I have seen farther it is by standing on the shoulders of giants." - Newton

[Updated on: Sat, 07 September 2019 18:22]

Report message to a moderator

Re: Wristlet 103 [message #10876 is a reply to message #10875] Sat, 07 September 2019 18:41 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Barney Green
Messages: 1726
Registered: February 2014
Location: Wolfsburg, Germany
Gruen Authority
Yes, but the Guild was later. Moeri delivered movements to Alpina, this is for sure.

Gruen, Gruen, Gruen ist alles was ich habe... Gruen, Gruen, Gruen is all I have...(German folklore song)
Re: Wristlet 103 [message #10877 is a reply to message #10876] Sun, 08 September 2019 04:02 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Case is currently offline  Case
Messages: 1178
Registered: May 2019
Location: Cincinnati
Gruen Authority
That might help explain why this particular 179 UQ case style is the last holdout to jump to 5mm case #s--as I say it seems to have occurred near 5.1mm. Perhaps a supplier change to wads or a retooling/runnout time with Moeri.

Amazing find, guys!


My two caveats:
1) I'm wrong many times a day --just ask my wife!
2) Always seeking to learn more
Re: Wristlet 103 [message #10883 is a reply to message #10877] Mon, 09 September 2019 01:32 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Gary
Messages: 2108
Registered: May 2013
Location: Left Coast
Gruen Authority
Cheerleader

So I wonder if many of the Guilds used Fritz Moeri like Aegler or others?

This is probably a later cased 885 but case looks similar to the 179 case.

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=5016&private=0

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=5017&private=0

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=5018&private=0

Sorry for stepping on this thread. Embarrassed
Re: Wristlet 103 [message #10884 is a reply to message #10883] Mon, 09 September 2019 07:31 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Barney Green
Messages: 1726
Registered: February 2014
Location: Wolfsburg, Germany
Gruen Authority
Hi Gary,

I have the exactly same case with serial 5136844, so just 2k apart from yours. Strangely mine houses a "Watch Specialties Co" marked 806 movement which other than this 1926 case, dates towards 1917 to 1920. So I think mine got a movement swap before I bought it.
I think that in 1926 Gruen was not able to fulfill the demand with their usual supply so they sourced here and there even with the cases in order to satisfy the demand. The demand on the plain version of the Ladies Paris Square might have been deminishing, so they bought a batch from Moeri and stamped it in the US.

Just one possibility.


Gruen, Gruen, Gruen ist alles was ich habe... Gruen, Gruen, Gruen is all I have...(German folklore song)
Re: Wristlet 103 [message #10886 is a reply to message #10884] Mon, 09 September 2019 16:07 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Case is currently offline  Case
Messages: 1178
Registered: May 2019
Location: Cincinnati
Gruen Authority
Just curious, Gary & Barney--do both of your 5MM series UQ cases now lack the "P" stamped in front of the case # last 4 on the bezel? Looks like Gary's does not have a "P" above--there's something but unclear. Not a clear "P" in same font as +last 4, like you see on the case for Wristlet 103 and for Jack's case above.

I expect they do not have a "P", but would like confirmation. This relates to the Wadsworth case sequence(s).


My two caveats:
1) I'm wrong many times a day --just ask my wife!
2) Always seeking to learn more
Re: Wristlet 103 [message #10887 is a reply to message #10886] Mon, 09 September 2019 16:21 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Barney Green
Messages: 1726
Registered: February 2014
Location: Wolfsburg, Germany
Gruen Authority
Hi Case, I have to disappoint you, the P is there. P6844...
But the next one I have in this series, 5139277, comes without it.
The two around them are Wadsworth 14K REINFORCED marked: 5121097 and 5144168, both lack the P.


Gruen, Gruen, Gruen ist alles was ich habe... Gruen, Gruen, Gruen is all I have...(German folklore song)
Re: Wristlet 103 [message #10890 is a reply to message #10887] Mon, 09 September 2019 17:25 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Case is currently offline  Case
Messages: 1178
Registered: May 2019
Location: Cincinnati
Gruen Authority
Not a disappointment! Helpful--Thanks! Trying to build more data.

The reinforced cases I have seem to be just +4, but I recall seeing one marked "E"+4.


My two caveats:
1) I'm wrong many times a day --just ask my wife!
2) Always seeking to learn more
Re: Wristlet 103 [message #10900 is a reply to message #10890] Tue, 10 September 2019 14:28 Go to previous message
Gary
Messages: 2108
Registered: May 2013
Location: Left Coast
Gruen Authority
Cheerleader

Mine does no have a "P".
Previous Topic: Cartouche 379
Next Topic: Strap 61
Goto Forum:
  


Current Time: Thu May 16 17:30:14 UTC 2024

Total time taken to generate the page: 0.01496 seconds